Gautheron Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2023 Lettie Teague WSJ On Wine as the Russians do

as the Russians do

or in your favorite rum cocktail

The wine that comes off it is all tension and line — taut

with a dusty old oak cask quality

Gautheron Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2023 Lettie Teague WSJ On Wine as the Russians doDomaine Gautheron sits in the village of Fleys just east of Chablis, where seven generations of the family have farmed a tight 25 hectare estate. Mont de Milieu is one of the great right bank 1er Crus, a steep south southeast facing slope of Kimmeridgian limestone that shares its hillside neighborhood with the Grand Crus across the Serein. Whole cluster pressed and slow fermented, this is classical right bank Chablis: powerful and racy, with the